Not all that long ago, conventional wisdom said the best Mexican food could be found only near the border, in Texas, Arizona or California. Then chefs around the country began stretching the definition of fine Mexican dining.
No longer does it have to be strictly authentic or traditional -- great Mexican can be a creative riff on street food, peasant fare or beachy seafood. These restaurants in five American cities are beloved by diners and critics for their original takes on Mexican food. Find out how they do it, plus the secret ingredients that contribute to their success.
1. Topolobampo: Mystical Mexican dining in Chicago
Opened by famous chefs Rick and Deanna Bayless in 1989, Topolobampo brought upscale Mexican food to Chicago. Instead of appetizers and entrees, guests select dishes from categories such as “ancient,” “soulful” and “enchanting" to create their own three-, five- or seven-course tasting menus. The restaurant is also known for its margaritas (shaken tableside) and its commitment to local, fresh ingredients, such as greens from the Bayless garden and homemade pineapple vinegar.
Topolobampo's secret ingredient: Its creative sauces and salsas. The Oaxacan black mole is made with chilhuacle chiles and 28 other ingredients. The venison is served with black-pepper pasilla sauce; the scallops with raw tomatillo salsa with Serrano chile, lemon verbena and mint.
2. Coni'Seafood: A big fish in Los Angeles
Coni'Seafood claims to have the best fish tacos in L.A. -- a hotly debated claim -- but critics do agree that this little restaurant offers some of the best mariscos in town. Inspired by the cuisine of Nayarit state on the Pacific Ocean, Chef Sergio Peñuelas is a wizard with shrimp, serving it raw as ceviche marinero or aguachile, with lemon and jalapeno puree, or even deep-fried whole as crunchy shrimp cucaracha. Coni'Seafood offers a mixture of heat and relief, says Serious Eats. Crisp cucumber cools down the camarones a la diabla, and the marlin tacos combine habanero salsa and refreshing avocado.
Coni'Seafood's secret ingredient: Its showpiece dish. Peñuelas is famous for his grilled snook, or pescado zarandeado, a massive fish cooked over charcoal and served split in half. Do many people order it? Probably not. But everyone wants to see someone order it, and no critic can resist talking about this pièce de résistance.
3. Oyamel: Mexico City goes to Washington
José Andrés, the Spanish chef-owner of Oyamel, seeks to evoke the flavors of modern Mexico City with antojitos -- "the little dishes from the streets" -- tacos and ceviches. Those delectable small plates include arroz de huitlacoche con queso fresco, which is rice cooked with a corn-grown fungus called Mexican corn truffles, and nopal asado con salsa molcajete , which is grilled cactus paddles served with a salsa of grilled tomatoes, tomatillos, green onions, cilantro and green chiles. The adventurous can ask for Chef Colin King's plate-by-plate culinary tour through Mexico; the not-so-adventurous can opt for tacos, although perhaps not the chapulines with sautéed grasshoppers.
Oyamel's secret ingredient: Its sweet treats. Diners love the food, but they freak out over the desserts -- particularly the tres leches cake and the cafe de olla spiced coffee. The dessert menu includes tequila pairings.
4. Empellón Cocina: Playful flavors in New York
Empellón means "push," and that's what chef Alex Stupak aims to do with Mexican cuisine by experimenting with new tastes and techniques. The lamb belly barbacoa is served with cucumber and smoked olives, Even the cocktails combine cultures, like the Mezcal Mai Tai and the Lemongrass Collins. The approach, Travel+Leisure notes, is "not necessarily always successful," but is "fun and avant-garde."
Empellón's secret ingredient: Inventive salsas. And by inventive, we don't mean just tossing in some papaya -- the seven salsas on the menu include Sikil Pak, with pumpkin seeds and sour orange juice, and Salsa de Arbol, with arbol chilis and sesame seeds.
5. Nuestra Cocina: Down-home dishes in Portland
Where other upscale Mexican restaurants offer haute cuisine, Nuestra Cocina goes back to basics: peasant fare from Central Mexico. Owners Benjamin Gonzalez and Shannon Dooley-Gonzalez say they aim to create food that's "exquisitely simple," such as camarones al mojo de ajo (white prawns in garlic & chiles) and pollo asado en achiote (grilled chicken in achiote rub). The surprise star of their dishes is their homemade tortillas. Fans say the margaritas make the long waits tolerable.
Nuestra Cocina's secret ingredient: Cooking classes. It's rare that chefs are willing to share their secrets, but that's exactly what Nuestra Cocina does with its popular monthly classes.
*Updated April 2018 to include new link to Coni'Seafood's website.
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